Day 7: Salzburg!

Our second excursion took us to Salzburg, which is known among most of us for two things: Mozart, and “The Sound of Music.”  But, trust me, there’s a lot more to this city than its claims to fame. 

The journey to Salzburg began very early in the morning.  Breakfast was rushed and we jumped on the buses to take a 3-hour ride.  It didn’t take too long after we arrived to start gaping at the beauty that surrounded us.  The first major sight on our trip was a walking bridge over the river.  On the metal-grate fence that makes the sides of the bridge, there are hundreds of locks.  The significance of this is that couples, when they start a relationship, will come to the bridge, put their names on a lock, and leave the lock on the bridge.  In some circumstances, both of them have a key and either can come back, if the relationship breaks off, and throw the lock into the river; but, as one of our leaders said, “If you’re really confident, you throw the keys in the river at the start.”  

It was amazing to see all these beautiful mountains surrounding the city.  You got the sense that the people who built Salzburg worked with the land rather than subdued it to meet their own desires. 

Walking the streets alone was an exciting experience.  So many people walk to wherever they’re going.  In America, we’re so used to driving wherever we want to go.  In Salzburg, everything is relatively close together.  See?  The streets are narrow and cozily tucked in between the buildings.  And, yes, that first sign on the right-hand side is McDonalds.  But even McDonalds is classy in Salzburg!  (They had to be to be allowed to set up a store in town. Haha!)

That steeple was our first glimpse of the Church where we would celebrate Mass, Franziskanerkirche (Church of the Franciscans).  

This beautiful Crucifix was in an inset in the wall that lined the street on the way to the church. 

Franziskanerkirche has been a Franciscan church for many years.  The center statue on the altarpiece of the Madonna and Child is the oldest piece in the building.  It is made out of wood, believe it or not.  There are also a number of side-chapels around the sanctuary and the sides of the church.  All of them are different, which I thought was really neat.  

Below is a picture of the side chapel directly across from where I sat for Mass.  Of course, it’s the altar to our school’s (and the church’s) patron, St. Francis. I love the white statues of angels and the frescoes.  It’s such beautiful, beautiful work. 

And, then, I look closer, and…what’s that on the sides? Unicorns!

I have a great love for the Sacred Heart of Jesus, so I was beyond pleased to see this side altar. 

After Mass, we began our tour of Salzburg.  

Christ is on the very top, angels on either side, the four evangelists at the center, Peter and Paul on either side of the middle door, and Rupert and Virgil on the sides.  

This is the grand cathedral of Salzburg, or the Dom zu Salzburg.  It's dedicated to Sts. Rupert and Virgil, and "counts among the treasures of sacred building are in the german-speaking area."  The original church that was on these ground burned to the ground in the 17th century.  The present church was built by the bishop-regent several centuries ago who was determined to make Salzburg into another Rome, his beloved home, for which he was not particularly liked by the people at that time.  It's said that when he was told that the original church was on fire, his response was "Let it burn."  He was much more focused on art than on religion, it seems, and eventually was imprisoned in the fortress because he made himself so disliked.  But in that time, he had a conversion of heart, and at every Mass his name is still mentioned among those for whom the congregation prays.  

The covered statue in the center is a statue of Our Lady. At the center, between the towers, you may be able to see a little band of gold.  That's a large crown.  When you stand directly in front of the statue, and far enough back, the crown rests above Mary's head.  

I love horses, so seeing horses and carriages, not to mention Friesians (!!!) in Salzburg got me very excited!

I should mention that, to properly prepare ourselves for this journey ;), we watched “The Sound of Music” the night before we made the trip.  It made it easier to recognize the places where several scenes from the movie were filmed, and also built our excitement.  It’s great to go to a school where everyone loves the movie almost as much as I do. ;)  We all sang along with the songs together.

This is the (unfortunately covered) fountain that Maria passes in “The Sound of Music” when she sings “I Have Confidence.” 

We were privileged to get a look inside the Grand Cathedral for a few moments.  And, WHOA!!!  This church was incredibly ornate.  See this picture of the ceiling?  Those white shapes lining the paintings are not painted on, or sketched: those are carved stone figures.  Commence gape. 

What’s also neat about this church is that Mozart wrote many of his works with the harmonics of this church in mind.  There are four of these smaller organs at four corners around the center of the church.  These organists had mirrors (or people signaling them) to help them know when to stop and start playing. 

At the top of the large dome/cupola, you can see the depiction of the Holy Spirit!  This is something I’ve noticed in many of the Austrian churches so far, and I really like it.

What a gorgeous blue-sky day to explore Salzburg!

Up above the city, on a large hilltop/mountain is the fortress of Salzburg: Hohensalzburg Fortress.  


Here is St. Peter’s Cemetery: an inspiration for the cemetery featured in “The Sound of Music.”  The actual one used in the movie was built in Hollywood for the film.  See the iron gates in the back?  Cool!  The cemetery, too, was beautiful.  It was like a garden more than a cemetery almost.  Everything is so well cared for. 

A hermit's cell in the wall of the cliff!!

St. Peter's Church

This is inside St. Peter’s Church. 

We also saw Mozart's birthplace...

and where he lived later in his life. 

Eventually we arrived at this spot: 

I recognized this entranceway (to Mirabell Gardens) instantly!!  Maria and the Von Trapps walk past it while singing “Do-Re-Mi.” (It didn't take long for us to start singing. Haha.)

See?

Sadly, the gardens were somewhat fenced off, so we couldn't walk through the center of the gardens.  But it was still great to see this place.  Reminded me of somewhere not far from my home. ;) 

THE PEGASUS FOUNTAIN!!! I was so excited to see it! I started jumping up and down.  This was the place featured in the movie that I most wanted to see, and, since I didn’t know exactly where it was, I didn’t know that I would get to.

And I believe these are the steps featured during the same song.  Maria and the children sing while stepping up and down them in time to the notes. 

In our free time, following lunch and my first cup of European hot chocolate, we decided to walk up to the Fortress!  Here is the view on the way up. 

Unfortunately, this is where my camera died.  :P  But perhaps I can share a few photos that my friends took, because the view from the watchtower is worth it. 

It was a long hike up to the fortress, but it was very exciting and fun, if a bit exhausting. We kept climbing up and up trying to find where we could access the tower from.  The only way to do that was a tour (with the little radios that tell you about the place instead of real people…interesting).  We got to see the salt-storeroom (Salzburg is named for the salt trade that made the city wealthy), a torture chamber, and, at last, the tower; but, more breathtaking, THE VIEW!!!

Yes, those are the ALPS behind us!!! It was incredible!! (photo credit: Megan D.)

(photo credit: Megan D)

Coming down from the fortress, we saw more amazing views of the Alps, and also came across Nonnberg Abbey! the abbey where "Maria" and other scenes from "The Sound of Music" took place. When we recognized the road and the gate, everybody (but especially me) got excited!  The church was locked, but we were able to walk within the walls.  :)  It was very peaceful.

(photo credit: Sarah H)

(photo credit: Sarah H)

(photo credit: Megan D)

We found a nice, cozy restaurant to have dinner in: Viener Schnitzel and fries.  :)  It was a great time! After dinner, we went back to St. Peter's, hoping to pray the Chaplet of Divine Mercy in the cemetery; but the cemetery was closed.  So we went inside the church instead, and sang the prayers.  It was a wonderful way to end our adventures for the day.

Praise God for adventures in Salzburg, friends, and every other blessing that He showered on me this day.  It was unforgettable! 

Goodnight, everyone!  

Day 4: Gaming, Austria

On Wednesday of our first week here, we took an afternoon tour of the city of Gaming.  The Kartause is somewhat on the outer part of town, so you have about a five to ten minute walk into the main part of town.  It was a beautiful day!  It was warm, the snow was melting, we didn't need gloves or hats or heavy coats.  It was great!  This post will mostly be pictures, probably, because so much of Gaming is more or less something you feel with your heart.  The place is just beautifully quaint and homey.  The only sad part is that Europe, despite its gorgeous Catholic churches and great history of Catholicism, is not very religious as a country right now.  In fact, the local parish has only one Sunday Mass, and only two days a week where daily Mass is available; another nearby church only offers Mass "or a service of Word with communion on the first and third Sunday (every month)" at one time on those days.  I think it's a tragedy of the Faith becoming viewed as merely a part of the Church in Europe's history and not relevant here and now.  Praise the Lord that daily Mass is offered here for us in the Kartause!!

So, allow me to introduce you to...GAMING!

The parish church of Gaming: Sts. Philip and James

Gaming's cemetery.

The cemeteries in Europe are very beautiful and well-kept.  The flowers on the graves are always real and are replaced often, and the candles are always lit.  I think it's wonderful that people take such good care of these resting places for those who've gone before us.  I think, honestly, that the European and American cultures can really learn from each other.  This is one of those things, in my opinion, that America needs to learn more.  America needs more reverence for the past; Europe, on the other hand, needs to live out its religion as more than a cultural part of who they are and, instead, as a way of life that transforms the person.  

This is the altar from St. Philip and James Church, where we had Mass on the day of our tour.  The smaller painting above the one behind the tabernacle depicts the two Apostles for whom the Church is named.  Behind the tabernacle is a painting of the three Persons of the Trinity.  The statue of Jesus topping the tabernacle is also very beautiful.  I know I use that word for a lot of things, but it's one of the best ways to describe the artwork here.  It's amazing! 

This is the traditional ambo.  I love the metalwork of the Holy Spirit that is on the ceiling.  

This is the side chapel to Our Lady of Carmel.  

Interestingly, this is one of the only stained glass windows that I've seen here.  I think a lot of the traditional windows of the cathedrals and chapels here were smashed out in the second World War...but I'm just speculating.  

St. Sebastian.  I've seen a lot of him in Europe. :) As well as Sts. Peter, Paul, and Michael.

The organ of the church.  Mozart played on it when he was 6 or 7 years old!!

The side altar on the left.  The painting is St. Florian; the statue on the left is St. Roch/Rocco (patron against plague); the center statue is St. Anne; and on the left is the patron of cattle, whose name escapes me.

The side altar on the right of the church.  The statue on the right is St. Benedict, and on the left side is St. Bruno, the founder of the Carthusians.  These two are renowned in this part of Europe because they founded two prominent Eastern orders: the Benedictines and the Carthusians.  I can't remember who the painting is of, or the other statue. 

This one's for you, Emily.  I touched the keys. ;)

The road back to the Kartause.  

The Kartause Marienthron

On our second full day of living in the Kartause, after my first class (which was amazing), I went exploring through the Kartause with a friend.  We also will have a tour of the Kartause sometime in the near future, which will allow us to see some of the places that are normally "off-limits" to civilians, er...students. ;)

Our home away from home for the next four months was once a Carthusian monastery.  The Carthusians are one of the most intense orders of monks.  Only one of their number, their founder St. Bruno, is a canonized saint.  This is not because the others are not holy enough by any means; but because it is an understanding in the statutes of these monks that, by living the life of a Carthusian monk, by the time you die, you will be a canonized saint.  I thought that was amazing!  In fact, at one point when people were excavating for a new building in Gaming, they found several coffins of Carthusian monks, and the bodies were incorrupt (did not decay; a special privilege God bestows on the bodies of those who use their whole bodies, or in some cases a specific part of their bodies (tongue, arm, hand, etc.) to its full and ultimate purpose: to give glory to God and do His work).  When the prior was contacted, he told the men to bury the bodies again because it was part of a Carthusian's desire for humility not to have his fellow brothers pursue his canonization.
Under Emperor Joseph II, the Carthusians were expelled from the monastery because the emperor did not see the benefit of their living there.  The monastery, due to neglect and occupation by hostile forces at various times in its history, fell into disrepair.  It was purchased by an architect in 1981 (from the Benedictines at Melk, actually!), and restored and renovated so that it now is partially a hotel and houses students for a good part of the year.

So this is home for the next few months, and I'm looking forward to it very much!  Next post will be about the city we're in, Gaming, which is so beautiful!